This week I finally have the opportunity to speak about my favorite piece of jewelry – rings! Of course, they also happen be the hardest to make…
Rings are usually made by joining two opposite edges of a metal piece to create the ring’s circle. The only way these edges can be joined properly is by a method known as soldering. I was yet to master my sawing when soldering was introduced to me as the next must – learn technique. It involves extremely delicate work and took me many tries to even realize what I was supposed to do. And what better way to learn than to make my first ever set of rings.
Soldering is done with the use of a torch and a silver solder. First, I flux the area where the two parts of metal meet (a substance that initiates the chemical prosses). Then, I cut up small pieces of silver solder and place them on top of the joint. Finally, I fire coat the metal and the solder spreads onto it, joining the two pieces together.
The purpose of making my first ring was to work on a piece that required soldering. In addition, the jewelry I was making had both a matte and a shiny surface to it, so I was able to experience creating different finishes. I can’t say much about the result, aside from the fact that I did not think the gold colour suited the ring’s design, so my instructor electroplated it in rhodium for me. Rhodium is a precious metal used mainly to coat white gold. It has a bright finish and doesn’t tarnish or scratch.
After I supposedly mastered soldering (still have so much left to learn…) I wanted to know how to set gemstones into jewelry. I was shown a very basic technique of stonesetting, using a black gemstone that my instructor happened to find in the studio. This one was really made just for practice.
As of now, I still didn’t make anything I actually like. Each lesson was only 3 hours long and I’m struggling to get my techniques right, since that’s what truly matters. I guess I will have plenty of time to make pieces that I like later on.
Anyhow, since this is all about rings now, I was thinking of getting into a more in-depth discussion of ring styles and their creation. Perhaps next week I can do a little overview of rings in general. What do you think? Let me know in the comments!